i went for a surf at one of my favorite spots of old, manana island. it’s a one mile paddle offshore to the island itself. the winds were a little onshore so i knew it wouldn’t be that crowded.
i was about a 1/2 mile into the paddle when a police helicopter started buzzing over me, followed by a lifeguard on a jet ski. it was a heavy local guy that I was introduced before to via my streamer world. he said how did i get out here since the beaches were closed. they spotted a 14 foot and a 16 foot tiger shark eating the remains of a guy that jumped off the makapuu cliff the night before – all they found so far was his stomach guts and heart (see news coverage): Police Find Body in Waters…
i replied, “oh, that’s why no one at all is out!”. i asked him if i had to return to shore since i paddled this far and i thought the sharks were well fed. i told him i would be really worried only if there was a large floating carcas that they were feeding off (and the water was clear toward rabbit island, reducing the odds of a mistaken encounter).
he said i didn’t have to leave, but he had to warn me. he offered me a tow on the jet ski (after i told him i would roll the dice and was going to go for a quick surf anyway). i accepted the tow (a rule i usually won’t break, but since he wasn’t a tow-in surfer and i figured the less time paddling in the middle of the channel the better!)
the waves were great and manana island was magical as usual. he came back about an hour later and i was intending to leave about then, however i caught a great wave right in front of him and he was blown away with how good it was and how no one was out (it gets crowded there now a days – too many boats…). he was wishing he had his board.
for the first time i was hoping for more of a crowd – increase my odds of not getting chomped! i did have one chance of company – a monk seal was on the beach and i saw him start waddling down to the water. I figured the sharks would go after him first (he might smell better). unfortunately, he stopped half way and went back to sleep in the sand!
i couldn’t ask him for a ride and leave the great waves (respect issue). i had to get more waves for all those that couldn’t be there. also, i really didn’t want a ride in (aside from the shark issue).
i surfed for another 1/2 hour and then decided to paddle in while i still had some energy. i thought about surfing for another hour with the hope of him coming back again, but I didn’t want to risk it.
i still had some energy left and my strategy was to go for a constant strong paddle in without stopping. i remember seeing a show where the shark would only hit things that were NOT moving. the problem was 1/2 way back, right when the water started getting murky again, i had to pee. there was no way i was going to leave a trail of my scent for the tiger sharks. i of course held it in.
i decided to paddle harder and straight ahead for the shore. as you can tell by the existence of these words, i made it! i pee’d on the beach, kissed the sand, and walked to my car. terra firma never felt so good!
on the way back, i saw all the news vans, cops, and lifeguards. Another adventure (test?) under my belt (this one not by choice – at least the shark part).
wish you were NOT here for this one!
